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Vine cultivation probably came to Mallorca with the Roman conquest
of 123 ad. The activity is documented during the Moorish occupation
(903-1229), however, it was unlikely to have been important, as
the grapes were not used for wine production, although raisins
were an important part of the Muslim diet.
With the Catalan conquest of 1229, vine cultivation increased
extraordinarily and vineyards for the production of wine started
appearing. The new agricultural orientation that the conquerors
instigated was probably based largely around vineyards and olive
cultivation. Vine cultivation became a type of colonial monoculture,
or at least that was the intention, and vineyards consequently
spread throughout practically the whole island. In the majority
of homes there was a bodega, even in small houses. In the fifteenth
century a plague came down on Mallorcan vineyards and led to a
decline in this cultivation, with it ultimately disappearing in
many places.
Vine cultivation spread during the eighteenth century and the
first third of the nineteenth. This expansion was helped along
by the fact that in 1802 a tax exemption of twenty years was granted
to those who cultivated vines. Production suffered mixed fortunes
due to plagues until the end of the nineteenth century, at the
same time there was also an enormous increase in demand from France.
Phylloxera had destroyed French vine plantations, and in 1882
a contract was signed between France and Spain which favoured
the export of Spanish wines. In Mallorca, vineyards grew up on
land that had either been previously used for subsistence crops
such as cereals and vegetables, or was uncultivated. This expansion
was speculative, and more importance was given to quantity than
quality. In 1891, there were more vineyards than ever, with 30,000
hectares of land given over to this activity; it is thought that
the rise of the vineyard was one of the causes in the rise of
small-scale land ownership as well. However, in the same year,
1891, the appearance of the phylloxera plague brought about the
demise of all the vineyards on the island, and caused a serious
economic crisis. Many peasants, day labourers and small land owners
had to emigrate, the majority going to Cuba, Puerto Rico, Argentina
and Algeria. The solution to the phylloxera was to replant the
vineyards with American vines, however, different cultivations,
especially cereals and almonds, were planted in many areas. Phylloxera
highlighted the lack of prevision of a sector that wasn´t
prepared for competition on the world market, and on top of this,
France imposed tariffs that restricted Mallorcan exports in 1892.
Vine cultivation recovered in the twentieth century, especially
in Felanitx, and the creation of the Oenology Station has spread
more scientific cultivation techniques. Production was more or
less stable over the course of the twentieth century until the
1980s, when this sector found itself in a crisis that had been
brought on at a general level the decadence of Mallorcan agriculture,
or to be more specific, by the low profitability of the sector
and the competitiveness of the market. Other handicaps were the
excessive parcelling of land and the high number of vines per
hectare, which made mechanisation difficult, and subsidies from
the EU in return for abandoning this cultivation, which led to
the destruction of 1000 hectares of vineyards between 1985 and
1996.
Wine is currently going through a revival. This has come about
due to the development of quality wines that fetch good prices
owing to their limited production runs and a strong internal demand
from the tourist sector. There are two regulatory boards for wines
in Mallorca, with two appellations d´origine: Denominación
de origen de Binissalem and Denominación del Pla i Llevant
de Mallorca.
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